Listics

Back on the diet, enjoying restaurtant reviews. here’s a little about Hearth from the NYT:

Banished are the garnish, the layered sauce, the architectural tuna. This disciplined, almost stoical, cooking can be joyless at times but is mostly pleasing in its simplicity. Mr. Canora carries the torch here. A dish of hen-of-the-woods mushrooms, direct from Craft, could not be better. The mushrooms are roasted and served on a solitary white plate. Have your fork ready when they arrive; even good friends will betray you.

The Anson Mills polenta and its elemental presentation may also be familiar. The polenta fills a tiny copper pan. It is soft, like pudding, and on top is a shallow pool of olive oil flecked with thyme leaves.

…red cabbage, brussels sprouts and apple are shaved into threads and then dressed aggressively with vinegar and thyme. Marinated sardines glisten like silver blades beneath a rough of frisée, parsley leaves and a miniature dice of sofrito.